During conversations people have asked me questions regarding the details of a tie and what makes them so special. So I thought I'd put together a terminology post if you like, to help you understand each components of a superior quality handmade tie. I hope after reading this you will see a tie in an absolutely different way, as simple as it may look. As you might be aware that looks can be deceiving (wink).
Generally ties are made from silk material, however in the recent years, we have seen ties made from Wool and Cotton. The fabric is cut on a bias, which means the pattern is cut on 45° angle because the natural stretch or ‘give’ in the material helps the knot to form without too much tension on the fabric. Cutting the tie on the bias will allow the tie to drape well and recover quickly when the wearer has finished for the day. Another key point to note is that when it comes to folding the tie in the final stages, it creates a much more softer roll edge than if you were to cut it on the grain for an example.
The tie itself is made from three pieces and the term ‘Neck' is referring to the mid-section of the tie where it has two seams are holding the front blade and tail together. Some people use the seams to judge their ties length after they have applied their desired knot. However the seam is never exposed when knotted.
The Interlining is made from wool and can come in various weights, which will have an affect on how thick the tie will be and how it drapes. The interlining also contributes to how well the knot looks and drapes too, hence the reason why it is also cut on the bias. Some prefer to wear a tie which feel heavier and substantial, and others like a more light weight as they may prefer a wear a small knot.
The thread that is hand sewn along the back of the tie's seam is known as a Slipstitch. The stitch is hidden underneath the fold and goes through to the interlining and the process is repeated until it reaches the end. This part of the tie production is crucial because it hold the tie together and keeps the interlining in place. This can take a considerable amount of time as you have to ensure the thread does not go through to the front blade.
Back Of Blade.
This is a loop, which keeps the tail securely behind the blade. The use of the keeper is subjective to the wearer's style, as they may prefer the tail to be visible.
Brand Woven Label
Each ties made are numbered because they are limited edition and are exclusive. To find out more how I became inspired to design this label - click here.
At the beginning and end of the Slipstitch you will see bartacks, which secures the stitch in place. It is imperative the bartack is finished firmly because if not, with wear this would be easily loosen and eventually lead to the thread breaking and the slipstitch would unravel, spelling bad news for the life span of the tie.
At the back of the tie you will see (most of the time) a different type of fabric inserted into the border, which is hidden underneath the seam of the tie. There are various styles of tipping such as Decorative, which could be bold contrast colours and patterns. Self-tipping, which speaks for itself as it implies using the same fabric as the Shell. Un-tipped or Unlined Tipping is where the edges are rolled and hand stitched revealing the interior of the fabric.
This is a loop formed at the end of the bartack to allow for movement during the knotting and unknotting in order to prevent the thread from breaking. As you can imagine the amount of pressure applied to your tie on a daily basis, which makes this detail important to the components to the tie.
The Care label is sewn into the tail border, which is hidden. This label gives you valuable information on how to care for your tie.
If you would like to find out more about this tie used in today's blog post, simply click on the link below or to buy select the purchase button.
Material: 100% Silk, Large Medallion Jacquard Pattern | Colour: Purple, Blue, Pink & Yellow.
Lining/Tipping: 100% Dupion Silk | Colour: Purple.
Information: The back of the tie has a self-fabric keeper. Back seam is hand slip stitched and finished securely with purple bar tacks.
Blade Width: 9cm | Length: 152cm
Hand made in London, England.
Care Instruction: Dry clean only.
If you have any questions then feel welcomed to leave your comments below.
Have a great day and keep it dapper!